Legendary surfer Phil Edwards once proposed the idea there are two schools of thought in surfing that come to define style: "In the first, the wave is an incidental means of expressing one's ability to others; often a gym or track field would serve the same purpose. In the second, the wave is simply a beautiful expression of nature and respected as reason enough to participate. The 'stylist' merges with the wave, while the former merely 'uses' the wave." -slide magazine
I thought this quote was perfect for the times we are living in today, where do you fall?
It could only be the 2nd option for me!
ReplyDeleteI fall in the latter of the two categories as well. I guess that's why I never pursued shortboarding. I'm all about flow and glide (or at least attempts to flow and glide).
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